Provenance
Where this data comes from.
LayerLab scores on materials, so the material table is the product. This page exists so you can judge it rather than take it on trust.
What is ours
The material property table below, the perceptual descriptors derived from it, the dose-threshold values, the interaction rules, and the estimated compositions are all LayerLab's own. They were built for this engine and are not derived from, shaped by, or downstream of any third party's fragrance classification system, main-accord vocabulary, or weighting scheme.
Nothing in this catalogue was crawled, scraped, or imported. The note pyramid shown on each fragrance page is brand-published marketing copy, kept for display only - it is not an input to any score.
What is estimated, and how badly
Threshold and volatility figures are order-of-magnitude values drawn from general perfumery reference literature and fragrance-house material documentation. They are not transcribed from any single study, and no precise citation is claimed for any individual number. Flip thresholds and severities are judgement calls expressed on our own scale.
Per-fragrance loads are inferred from published note pyramids and the material palette typical of each house and era. No brand publishes real formulas. Every load in this app is an estimate, and a wrong load will produce a confidently wrong verdict.
What we do not have
There is no empirical data anywhere on how specific pairs actually behave on skin, because nobody has collected it. Every verdict this engine produces is a prediction from rules, not a finding from outcomes. Until pair-level results exist, that gap is the honest ceiling on how much any layering engine - this one included - deserves to be believed.
The material table
Half-life and substantivity in hours. Threshold in parts per billion, order of magnitude only - lower means more powerful.
| Material | Class | Character | Half-life | Threshold | Dose behaviour | Confidence |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| lavender oil | aromatic-herb | herbal-cool | 1.5 | 15.0 | above 0.7: camphoraceous, medicinal-sharp | high |
| linalool | aromatic-herb | herbal-cool | 1.2 | 30.0 | no known flip | high |
| linalyl acetate | aromatic-herb | herbal-cool | 0.8 | 50.0 | no known flip | high |
| sage oil | aromatic-herb | herbal-cool | 2.0 | 25.0 | above 0.6: camphor-sharp, medicinal | medium |
| ethyl maltol | caramelic | burnt-sugar | 9.0 | 0.6 | above 0.35: cotton-candy syrup, suffocating and inescapable | high |
| cedarwood | cedar | pencil-wood | 10.0 | 30.0 | no known flip | high |
| bergamot oil | citrus-terpene | bright-peel | 0.6 | 100.0 | no known flip | high |
| grapefruit oil | citrus-terpene | bright-peel | 0.5 | 80.0 | above 0.6: sharp rind bitterness | medium |
| limonene | citrus-terpene | bright-peel | 0.4 | 200.0 | no known flip | high |
| mandarin oil | citrus-terpene | bright-peel | 0.5 | 120.0 | no known flip | high |
| coumarin | coumarinic | hay-almond | 10.0 | 3.0 | above 0.65: tonka-bitter, almond-medicinal | high |
| tonka absolute | coumarinic | hay-almond | 10.0 | 2.0 | above 0.6: bitter almond, sour-sweet | medium |
| aldehyde C-11 undecylenic | fatty-aldehyde | soapy-lift | 1.0 | 1.0 | above 0.7: greasy, tallow-like heaviness | medium |
| aldehyde C-12 MNA | fatty-aldehyde | soapy-lift | 0.9 | 0.5 | above 0.7: waxy, fatty, candle-stub suffocation | medium |
| hedione | floral-diffusive | jasmine-air | 4.0 | 20.0 | no known flip | high |
| cis-3-hexenol | green-sap | cut-stem | 0.7 | 0.4 | above 0.45: acrid metallic grass, nauseating green | high |
| stemone | green-sap | cut-stem | 2.5 | 2.0 | above 0.5: sour, tomato-leaf sharpness | estimated |
| olibanum | incense | cold-smoke | 5.0 | 4.0 | above 0.6: church-dusty, throat-drying | medium |
| indole | indolic-floral | narcotic-floral | 3.0 | 0.3 | above 0.22: fecal, mothball, animalic decay | high |
| jasmine absolute | indolic-floral | narcotic-floral | 3.5 | 2.0 | above 0.6: overripe, indolic, airless | high |
| orange blossom absolute | indolic-floral | narcotic-floral | 2.5 | 4.0 | above 0.65: soapy-indolic, heavy | medium |
| ylang-ylang oil | indolic-floral | narcotic-floral | 3.0 | 6.0 | above 0.55: rubbery, medicinal, cloying | high |
| methyl ionone | ionone | violet-powder | 5.0 | 0.5 | above 0.65: dusty, dry, cosmetic-stale | high |
| fig lactone | lactone | milky-fruit | 3.0 | 8.0 | above 0.7: coconut-suntan cloying | medium |
| isobutyl quinoline | leather | tanned-hide | 6.0 | 0.05 | above 0.25: tar, rubber, bitter green hide | high |
| calone | marine | mineral-salt | 1.8 | 5.0 | above 0.45: cloying melon-plastic | high |
| sea salt accord | marine | mineral-salt | 1.5 | 15.0 | no known flip | estimated |
| galaxolide | musk | skin-musk | 20.0 | 1.0 | above 0.65: laundry-detergent flatness that deadens the blend | high |
| habanolide | musk | skin-musk | 18.0 | 2.0 | no known flip | medium |
| muscenone | musk | skin-musk | 16.0 | 0.5 | no known flip | medium |
| orris butter | orris | root-powder | 6.0 | 0.1 | no known flip | medium |
| oud | oud | resin-animalic | 18.0 | 1.0 | above 0.35: barnyard, medicinal, fecal-animalic | high |
| patchouli oil | patchouli | earth-damp | 14.0 | 8.0 | above 0.55: musty camphor, headshop | high |
| pink pepper | pepper | peppery-bite | 1.0 | 20.0 | above 0.7: dry dusty rasp | medium |
| rotundone | pepper | peppery-bite | 1.5 | 0.008 | above 0.45: harsh burning dust | high |
| benzoin | resin | amber-balsam | 12.0 | 4.0 | no known flip | medium |
| labdanum | resin | amber-balsam | 14.0 | 2.0 | above 0.6: sticky sour leather-resin | medium |
| coffee absolute | roast | roasted-bitter | 3.0 | 0.05 | above 0.4: burnt rubber, acrid ash | medium |
| toasted nut accord | roast | toasted-nut | 3.0 | 3.0 | no known flip | estimated |
| beta-damascone | rosy | rose-petal | 4.0 | 0.009 | above 0.18: stewed jam, syrupy and overbearing | high |
| citronellol | rosy | rose-petal | 2.5 | 40.0 | no known flip | high |
| damascenone | rosy | stewed-fruit | 6.0 | 0.002 | above 0.15: boiled jam, sour-sweet heaviness | high |
| geraniol | rosy | rose-petal | 2.5 | 40.0 | above 0.7: metallic geranium sharpness | medium |
| phenylethyl alcohol | rosy | rose-petal | 2.0 | 750.0 | no known flip | high |
| rose absolute | rosy | rose-petal | 3.5 | 5.0 | no known flip | medium |
| safraleine | saffron | leather-saffron | 4.0 | 0.03 | above 0.35: iodine, medicinal, rubbery | medium |
| benzyl salicylate | salicylate | sun-skin | 8.0 | 30.0 | no known flip | high |
| javanol | sandalwood | creamy-wood | 16.0 | 0.02 | above 0.35: milky-metallic, overwhelming | medium |
| sandalwood oil | sandalwood | creamy-wood | 14.0 | 5.0 | no known flip | high |
| birch tar | smoke-phenolic | burnt-phenol | 7.0 | 0.5 | above 0.3: acrid tar, burnt plastic | high |
| guaiacol | smoke-phenolic | burnt-phenol | 5.0 | 0.8 | above 0.45: creosote, tar, medicinal bandage | high |
| cardamom oil | spice | warm-spice | 1.0 | 40.0 | above 0.65: soapy eucalyptus edge | medium |
| ginger oil | spice | warm-spice | 1.2 | 30.0 | no known flip | medium |
| cinnamon bark oil | spice-phenolic | warm-spice | 3.5 | 8.0 | above 0.5: hot, scratchy, cassia-harsh | medium |
| eugenol | spice-phenolic | warm-spice | 4.0 | 6.0 | above 0.45: dental-surgery numbness, medicinal phenol | high |
| dihydromyrcenol | synthetic-fresh | clean-air | 1.0 | 20.0 | above 0.55: metallic soapy harshness that flattens whatever sits under it | medium |
| blackcurrant bud absolute | thiol | sulfurous-bite | 1.2 | 0.005 | above 0.5: catty, urinous, sweaty | high |
| grapefruit thiol | thiol | sulfurous-bite | 0.6 | 0.0001 | above 0.1: sulfurous, catty, feral | high |
| tobacco absolute | tobacco | cured-leaf | 6.0 | 3.0 | above 0.55: stale ashtray, sour smoke | medium |
| ethyl vanillin | vanillic | vanillic-sweet | 12.0 | 0.1 | above 0.4: synthetic candy-plastic | high |
| vanillin | vanillic | vanillic-sweet | 12.0 | 0.5 | above 0.6: flat plasticky sweetness that smothers what is under it | high |
| vetiver oil | vetiver | root-smoke | 14.0 | 10.0 | no known flip | high |
| amberwood | woody-amber | dry-amberwood | 16.0 | 0.2 | above 0.3: scorched mineral, screeching, inescapable | medium |
| ambroxan | woody-amber | dry-amberwood | 14.0 | 0.3 | above 0.35: metallic salt-dry, throat-catching, flattens everything beside it | high |
| cashmeran | woody-amber | dry-amberwood | 10.0 | 1.0 | above 0.6: pine-musk plastic | medium |
| iso e super | woody-amber | dry-amberwood | 12.0 | 0.5 | above 0.7: flat, deadening, grey | high |