Recommended
Both fragrances stay present through the day, something in the pair actively works, and no material is pushed far enough past its dose threshold to damage the blend. Any threshold that is crossed at all is still listed on the card.
Maison Margiela
By the Fireplace
Recommended
- vanilla rounds cured tobacco instead of competing with it
Spray first
Maison Margiela Jazz Club
Spray second
Maison Margiela By the Fireplace
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
burnt-phenol
peppery-bite
amber-balsam
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
burnt-phenol
amber-balsam
cured-leaf
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
burnt-phenol
amber-balsam
cured-leaf
-
6 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
burnt-phenol
amber-balsam
cured-leaf
Dose thresholds crossed
-
vanillin — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.88 against a threshold of 0.6.
Above this it reads flat plasticky sweetness that smothers what is under it.
Shared materials: vanillin, pink pepper, cedarwood.
Rests on at least one placeholder material value. Treat this verdict as weak.
- citrus peel lifts dry cedar and keeps it from reading dusty
- cold resin smoke and dry wood reinforce the same austerity
Spray first
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Spray second
Maison Margiela Jazz Club
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
amber-balsam
vanillic-sweet
peppery-bite
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
amber-balsam
vanillic-sweet
pencil-wood
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood
amber-balsam
vanillic-sweet
pencil-wood
-
6 hours
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Chanel Bleu de Chanel is ahead but Maison Margiela Jazz Club is still readable.
dry-amberwood
amber-balsam
vanillic-sweet
pencil-wood
Shared materials: cedarwood, labdanum.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- vanilla rounds cured tobacco instead of competing with it
- rose over oud is the pairing both traditions arrived at independently
Spray first
Tom Ford Oud Wood
Spray second
Maison Margiela Jazz Club
Ratio: 1 spray of Tom Ford Oud Wood to 2 sprays of Maison Margiela Jazz Club.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Tom Ford Oud Wood
Tom Ford Oud Wood is ahead but Maison Margiela Jazz Club is still readable.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
peppery-bite
creamy-wood
-
1 hour
Tom Ford Oud Wood
Tom Ford Oud Wood is ahead but Maison Margiela Jazz Club is still readable.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
creamy-wood
resin-animalic
-
3 hours
Tom Ford Oud Wood
Tom Ford Oud Wood is ahead but Maison Margiela Jazz Club is still readable.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
creamy-wood
resin-animalic
-
6 hours
Tom Ford Oud Wood
Tom Ford Oud Wood is ahead but Maison Margiela Jazz Club is still readable.
dry-amberwood
creamy-wood
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
resin-animalic
Dose thresholds crossed
-
vanillin — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.7 against a threshold of 0.6.
Above this it reads flat plasticky sweetness that smothers what is under it.
Shared materials: vanillin, vetiver oil, cedarwood, labdanum, rotundone.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
Yves Saint Laurent
Black Opium
Recommended
- vanilla rounds cured tobacco instead of competing with it
- rose and damp earth is the chypre spine
Spray first
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Spray second
Maison Margiela Jazz Club
Ratio: 1 spray of Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium to 2 sprays of Maison Margiela Jazz Club.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Maison Margiela Jazz Club is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
roasted-bitter
peppery-bite (flipped)
narcotic-floral
-
1 hour
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Maison Margiela Jazz Club is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
roasted-bitter
narcotic-floral
skin-musk
-
3 hours
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Maison Margiela Jazz Club is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
roasted-bitter
skin-musk
burnt-sugar
-
6 hours
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Maison Margiela Jazz Club is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
skin-musk
burnt-sugar
earth-damp
Dose thresholds crossed
-
vanillin — made worse by layering.
Combined load 1.1 against a threshold of 0.6.
Above this it reads flat plasticky sweetness that smothers what is under it.
-
pink pepper — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.76 against a threshold of 0.7.
Above this it reads dry dusty rasp.
Shared materials: vanillin, pink pepper.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
Workable with care
These hold together, but something about them needs watching. The caveat is stated on each.
- vanilla smothers herbal transparency rather than blending with it
Spray first
Dior Sauvage
Spray second
Maison Margiela Jazz Club
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
peppery-bite (flipped)
vanillic-sweet
cured-leaf
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
peppery-bite (flipped)
vanillic-sweet
cured-leaf
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
cured-leaf
stewed-fruit
-
6 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
cured-leaf
stewed-fruit
Dose thresholds crossed
-
pink pepper — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.72 against a threshold of 0.7.
Above this it reads dry dusty rasp.
Shared materials: pink pepper, cedarwood, rotundone.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- vanilla smothers herbal transparency rather than blending with it
Spray first
Yves Saint Laurent Libre
Spray second
Maison Margiela Jazz Club
Ratio: 1 spray of Yves Saint Laurent Libre to 2 sprays of Maison Margiela Jazz Club.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Yves Saint Laurent Libre
Yves Saint Laurent Libre is ahead but Maison Margiela Jazz Club is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
narcotic-floral
dry-amberwood
herbal-cool
-
1 hour
Yves Saint Laurent Libre
Yves Saint Laurent Libre is ahead but Maison Margiela Jazz Club is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
narcotic-floral
dry-amberwood
skin-musk
-
3 hours
Yves Saint Laurent Libre
Yves Saint Laurent Libre is ahead but Maison Margiela Jazz Club is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
dry-amberwood
narcotic-floral
skin-musk
-
6 hours
Yves Saint Laurent Libre
Yves Saint Laurent Libre is ahead but Maison Margiela Jazz Club is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
dry-amberwood
skin-musk
narcotic-floral
Dose thresholds crossed
-
vanillin — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.9 against a threshold of 0.6.
Above this it reads flat plasticky sweetness that smothers what is under it.
Shared materials: vanillin.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- One fragrance clearly leads at one checkpoint.
Spray first
Diptyque Eau Rose
Spray second
Maison Margiela Jazz Club
Ratio: 1 spray of Maison Margiela Jazz Club to 2 sprays of Diptyque Eau Rose.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
rose-petal
skin-musk
vanillic-sweet
peppery-bite
-
1 hour
Maison Margiela Jazz Club
Maison Margiela Jazz Club is ahead but Diptyque Eau Rose is still readable.
rose-petal
skin-musk
vanillic-sweet
cured-leaf
-
3 hours
Maison Margiela Jazz Club
Maison Margiela Jazz Club is ahead but Diptyque Eau Rose is still readable.
rose-petal
skin-musk
vanillic-sweet
cured-leaf
-
6 hours
Maison Margiela Jazz Club
Maison Margiela Jazz Club leads clearly. Diptyque Eau Rose is a modifier at this point rather than half of a blend.
skin-musk
vanillic-sweet
rose-petal
cured-leaf
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
Not recommended
Listed with the reason, because a rejection you cannot inspect is indistinguishable from a bug.
-
Glossier You
Not recommended
Nothing in this pair actively works together. Neither fragrance improves the other, so there is no reason to layer them.
-
Chanel No. 5
Not recommended
aldehydic soap over cured tobacco reads stale and ashtray-like rather than layered
-
Le Labo Santal 33
Not recommended
One fragrance is more than twice as loud as the other at 2 of the four checkpoints, so this is not a blend.
-
Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt
Not recommended
One fragrance is more than twice as loud as the other at 2 of the four checkpoints, so this is not a blend.
-
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540
Not recommended
One fragrance is more than twice as loud as the other at 3 of the four checkpoints, so this is not a blend.
-
Diptyque Philosykos
Not recommended
One fragrance is more than twice as loud as the other at 2 of the four checkpoints, so this is not a blend.
-
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Not recommended
One fragrance is more than twice as loud as the other at 4 of the four checkpoints, so this is not a blend.