Recommended
Both fragrances stay present through the day, something in the pair actively works, and no material is pushed far enough past its dose threshold to damage the blend. Any threshold that is crossed at all is still listed on the card.
Maison Margiela
Jazz Club
Recommended
- vanilla rounds cured tobacco instead of competing with it
Spray first
Maison Margiela Jazz Club
Spray second
Maison Margiela By the Fireplace
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
burnt-phenol
peppery-bite
amber-balsam
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
burnt-phenol
amber-balsam
cured-leaf
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
burnt-phenol
amber-balsam
cured-leaf
-
6 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
burnt-phenol
amber-balsam
cured-leaf
Dose thresholds crossed
-
vanillin — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.88 against a threshold of 0.6.
Above this it reads flat plasticky sweetness that smothers what is under it.
Shared materials: vanillin, pink pepper, cedarwood.
Rests on at least one placeholder material value. Treat this verdict as weak.
- amber-woods and musk extend each other into one continuous skin base
Spray first
Glossier You
Spray second
Maison Margiela By the Fireplace
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Glossier You
Glossier You is ahead but Maison Margiela By the Fireplace is still readable.
skin-musk
dry-amberwood (flipped)
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
-
1 hour
Glossier You
Glossier You is ahead but Maison Margiela By the Fireplace is still readable.
skin-musk
dry-amberwood (flipped)
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
-
3 hours
Glossier You
Glossier You is ahead but Maison Margiela By the Fireplace is still readable.
skin-musk
dry-amberwood (flipped)
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
-
6 hours
Glossier You
Glossier You is ahead but Maison Margiela By the Fireplace is still readable.
skin-musk
dry-amberwood (flipped)
vanillic-sweet
burnt-phenol
Dose thresholds crossed
-
cashmeran — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.63 against a threshold of 0.6.
Above this it reads pine-musk plastic.
Shared materials: cashmeran, pink pepper.
Rests on at least one placeholder material value. Treat this verdict as weak.
Workable with care
These hold together, but something about them needs watching. The caveat is stated on each.
- amber-woods bury a citrus opening within the first hour, so the citrus is decoration rather than a layer
- vanilla smothers herbal transparency rather than blending with it
- caramelised sweetness flattens dry herbs
Spray first
Dior Sauvage
Spray second
Maison Margiela By the Fireplace
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
burnt-phenol
peppery-bite
vanillic-sweet
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
peppery-bite
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
pencil-wood
-
6 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
burnt-phenol
pencil-wood
Shared materials: pink pepper, cedarwood.
Rests on at least one placeholder material value. Treat this verdict as weak.
- amber-woods bury a citrus opening within the first hour, so the citrus is decoration rather than a layer
Spray first
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Spray second
Maison Margiela By the Fireplace
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
pencil-wood
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
pencil-wood
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
pencil-wood
-
6 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
burnt-phenol
amber-balsam
Shared materials: cedarwood.
Rests on at least one placeholder material value. Treat this verdict as weak.
- amber-woods bury a citrus opening within the first hour, so the citrus is decoration rather than a layer
- burnt sugar swallows green sap almost immediately
- One fragrance clearly leads at one checkpoint.
Spray first
Diptyque Eau Rose
Spray second
Maison Margiela By the Fireplace
Ratio: 1 spray of Maison Margiela By the Fireplace to 2 sprays of Diptyque Eau Rose.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
rose-petal
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
skin-musk
-
1 hour
Maison Margiela By the Fireplace
Maison Margiela By the Fireplace is ahead but Diptyque Eau Rose is still readable.
rose-petal
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
skin-musk
-
3 hours
Maison Margiela By the Fireplace
Maison Margiela By the Fireplace is ahead but Diptyque Eau Rose is still readable.
burnt-phenol
rose-petal
skin-musk
vanillic-sweet
-
6 hours
Maison Margiela By the Fireplace
Maison Margiela By the Fireplace leads clearly. Diptyque Eau Rose is a modifier at this point rather than half of a blend.
skin-musk
vanillic-sweet
burnt-phenol
rose-petal
Rests on at least one placeholder material value. Treat this verdict as weak.
- One fragrance clearly leads at one checkpoint.
Spray first
Le Labo Santal 33
Spray second
Maison Margiela By the Fireplace
Ratio: 1 spray of Le Labo Santal 33 to 2 sprays of Maison Margiela By the Fireplace.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Maison Margiela By the Fireplace is still readable.
dry-amberwood
creamy-wood
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
-
1 hour
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Maison Margiela By the Fireplace is still readable.
dry-amberwood
creamy-wood
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
-
3 hours
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Maison Margiela By the Fireplace is still readable.
dry-amberwood
creamy-wood
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
-
6 hours
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 leads clearly. Maison Margiela By the Fireplace is a modifier at this point rather than half of a blend.
dry-amberwood
creamy-wood
vanillic-sweet
burnt-phenol
Shared materials: cedarwood.
Rests on at least one placeholder material value. Treat this verdict as weak.
Not recommended
Listed with the reason, because a rejection you cannot inspect is indistinguishable from a bug.
-
Yves Saint Laurent Libre
Not recommended
indolic florals over phenolic smoke go sour-animalic
-
Tom Ford Oud Wood
Not recommended
Nothing in this pair actively works together. Neither fragrance improves the other, so there is no reason to layer them.
-
Chanel No. 5
Not recommended
indolic florals over phenolic smoke go sour-animalic
-
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Not recommended
indolic florals over phenolic smoke go sour-animalic
-
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540
Not recommended
indolic florals over phenolic smoke go sour-animalic
-
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Not recommended
One fragrance is more than twice as loud as the other at 4 of the four checkpoints, so this is not a blend.
-
Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt
Not recommended
roasted material over sea air is two rooms at once
-
Diptyque Philosykos
Not recommended
raw green sap over roasted material turns sour