Recommended
Both fragrances stay present through the day, something in the pair actively works, and no material is pushed far enough past its dose threshold to damage the blend. Any threshold that is crossed at all is still listed on the card.
Maison Margiela
Jazz Club
Recommended
- citrus peel lifts dry cedar and keeps it from reading dusty
- cold resin smoke and dry wood reinforce the same austerity
Spray first
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Spray second
Maison Margiela Jazz Club
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
amber-balsam
vanillic-sweet
peppery-bite
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
amber-balsam
vanillic-sweet
pencil-wood
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood
amber-balsam
vanillic-sweet
pencil-wood
-
6 hours
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Chanel Bleu de Chanel is ahead but Maison Margiela Jazz Club is still readable.
dry-amberwood
amber-balsam
vanillic-sweet
pencil-wood
Shared materials: cedarwood, labdanum.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- citrus peel lifts dry cedar and keeps it from reading dusty
- warm spice and balsamic resin deepen each other
- cold resin smoke and dry wood reinforce the same austerity
Spray first
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Spray second
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Ratio: 1 spray of Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille to 2 sprays of Chanel Bleu de Chanel.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
vanillic-sweet
dry-amberwood
hay-almond
amber-balsam (flipped)
-
1 hour
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
vanillic-sweet
dry-amberwood
amber-balsam (flipped)
hay-almond
-
3 hours
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
vanillic-sweet
dry-amberwood
amber-balsam (flipped)
hay-almond
-
6 hours
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
vanillic-sweet
dry-amberwood
amber-balsam (flipped)
hay-almond
Dose thresholds crossed
-
labdanum — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.7 against a threshold of 0.6.
Above this it reads sticky sour leather-resin.
Shared materials: cedarwood, labdanum.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
Workable with care
These hold together, but something about them needs watching. The caveat is stated on each.
- amber-woods bury a citrus opening within the first hour, so the citrus is decoration rather than a layer
Spray first
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Spray second
Yves Saint Laurent Libre
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
narcotic-floral
vanillic-sweet
skin-musk (flipped)
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
vanillic-sweet
narcotic-floral
skin-musk (flipped)
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
vanillic-sweet
skin-musk (flipped)
narcotic-floral
-
6 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
skin-musk (flipped)
vanillic-sweet
narcotic-floral
Dose thresholds crossed
-
ambroxan — made worse by layering.
Combined load 0.7 against a threshold of 0.35.
Above this it reads metallic salt-dry, throat-catching, flattens everything beside it.
-
galaxolide — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.75 against a threshold of 0.65.
Above this it reads laundry-detergent flatness that deadens the blend.
Shared materials: ambroxan, hedione, galaxolide.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
Maison Margiela
By the Fireplace
Workable with care
- amber-woods bury a citrus opening within the first hour, so the citrus is decoration rather than a layer
Spray first
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Spray second
Maison Margiela By the Fireplace
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
pencil-wood
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
pencil-wood
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
pencil-wood
-
6 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
burnt-phenol
amber-balsam
Shared materials: cedarwood.
Rests on at least one placeholder material value. Treat this verdict as weak.
- amber-woods bury a citrus opening within the first hour, so the citrus is decoration rather than a layer
Spray first
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Spray second
Glossier You
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
skin-musk (flipped)
root-powder
bright-peel
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
skin-musk (flipped)
root-powder
violet-powder
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
skin-musk (flipped)
root-powder
pencil-wood
-
6 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
skin-musk (flipped)
dry-amberwood (flipped)
root-powder
pencil-wood
Dose thresholds crossed
-
ambroxan — made worse by layering.
Combined load 0.65 against a threshold of 0.35.
Above this it reads metallic salt-dry, throat-catching, flattens everything beside it.
-
galaxolide — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.9 against a threshold of 0.65.
Above this it reads laundry-detergent flatness that deadens the blend.
-
iso e super — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.8 against a threshold of 0.7.
Above this it reads flat, deadening, grey.
Shared materials: iso e super, ambroxan, galaxolide.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- amber-woods bury a citrus opening within the first hour, so the citrus is decoration rather than a layer
Spray first
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Spray second
Tom Ford Oud Wood
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
creamy-wood
pencil-wood
resin-animalic
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
creamy-wood
resin-animalic
pencil-wood
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
creamy-wood
resin-animalic
amber-balsam
-
6 hours
Tom Ford Oud Wood
Tom Ford Oud Wood is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
creamy-wood
resin-animalic
amber-balsam
Dose thresholds crossed
-
ambroxan — made worse by layering.
Combined load 0.7 against a threshold of 0.35.
Above this it reads metallic salt-dry, throat-catching, flattens everything beside it.
Shared materials: cedarwood, ambroxan, sandalwood oil, labdanum.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- amber-woods bury a citrus opening within the first hour, so the citrus is decoration rather than a layer
Spray first
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Spray second
Chanel No. 5
Ratio: 1 spray of Chanel No. 5 to 2 sprays of Chanel Bleu de Chanel.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Chanel No. 5
Chanel No. 5 is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
narcotic-floral
skin-musk (flipped)
dry-amberwood
soapy-lift
-
1 hour
Chanel No. 5
Chanel No. 5 is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
skin-musk (flipped)
dry-amberwood
narcotic-floral
creamy-wood
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
skin-musk (flipped)
dry-amberwood
narcotic-floral
creamy-wood
-
6 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
skin-musk (flipped)
dry-amberwood
creamy-wood
narcotic-floral
Dose thresholds crossed
-
galaxolide — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.7 against a threshold of 0.65.
Above this it reads laundry-detergent flatness that deadens the blend.
Shared materials: bergamot oil, sandalwood oil, galaxolide.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- amber-woods bury a citrus opening within the first hour, so the citrus is decoration rather than a layer
Spray first
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Spray second
Dior Sauvage
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
bright-peel
skin-musk
peppery-bite
-
1 hour
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Chanel Bleu de Chanel is ahead but Dior Sauvage is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
skin-musk
pencil-wood
cold-smoke
-
3 hours
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Chanel Bleu de Chanel is ahead but Dior Sauvage is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
skin-musk
pencil-wood
creamy-wood
-
6 hours
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Chanel Bleu de Chanel is ahead but Dior Sauvage is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
skin-musk
pencil-wood
creamy-wood
Dose thresholds crossed
-
ambroxan — made worse by layering.
Combined load 1.08 against a threshold of 0.35.
Above this it reads metallic salt-dry, throat-catching, flattens everything beside it.
-
iso e super — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.82 against a threshold of 0.7.
Above this it reads flat, deadening, grey.
Shared materials: cedarwood, iso e super, bergamot oil, ambroxan, limonene, galaxolide.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
Yves Saint Laurent
Black Opium
Workable with care
- amber-woods bury a citrus opening within the first hour, so the citrus is decoration rather than a layer
Spray first
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Spray second
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Ratio: 1 spray of Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium to 2 sprays of Chanel Bleu de Chanel.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
roasted-bitter
skin-musk (flipped)
-
1 hour
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
roasted-bitter
skin-musk (flipped)
-
3 hours
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
skin-musk (flipped)
roasted-bitter
-
6 hours
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
skin-musk (flipped)
burnt-sugar
Dose thresholds crossed
-
galaxolide — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.7 against a threshold of 0.65.
Above this it reads laundry-detergent flatness that deadens the blend.
Shared materials: galaxolide.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- amber-woods bury a citrus opening within the first hour, so the citrus is decoration rather than a layer
Spray first
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Spray second
Le Labo Santal 33
Ratio: 1 spray of Le Labo Santal 33 to 2 sprays of Chanel Bleu de Chanel.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
creamy-wood
skin-musk (flipped)
pencil-wood
-
1 hour
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
creamy-wood
skin-musk (flipped)
pencil-wood
-
3 hours
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
creamy-wood
skin-musk (flipped)
pencil-wood
-
6 hours
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
creamy-wood
skin-musk (flipped)
pencil-wood
Dose thresholds crossed
-
ambroxan — made worse by layering.
Combined load 0.75 against a threshold of 0.35.
Above this it reads metallic salt-dry, throat-catching, flattens everything beside it.
-
iso e super — made worse by layering.
Combined load 1.3 against a threshold of 0.7.
Above this it reads flat, deadening, grey.
-
galaxolide — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.7 against a threshold of 0.65.
Above this it reads laundry-detergent flatness that deadens the blend.
Shared materials: cedarwood, iso e super, ambroxan, sandalwood oil, galaxolide.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Baccarat Rouge 540
Workable with care
- amber-woods bury a citrus opening within the first hour, so the citrus is decoration rather than a layer
Spray first
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Spray second
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540
Ratio: 1 spray of Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 to 2 sprays of Chanel Bleu de Chanel.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
burnt-sugar
leather-saffron
skin-musk
-
1 hour
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
burnt-sugar
leather-saffron
skin-musk
-
3 hours
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
burnt-sugar
skin-musk
leather-saffron
-
6 hours
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
skin-musk
burnt-sugar
pencil-wood
Dose thresholds crossed
-
ambroxan — made worse by layering.
Combined load 0.9 against a threshold of 0.35.
Above this it reads metallic salt-dry, throat-catching, flattens everything beside it.
-
iso e super — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.95 against a threshold of 0.7.
Above this it reads flat, deadening, grey.
Shared materials: cedarwood, iso e super, ambroxan, hedione, galaxolide.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.