Recommended
Both fragrances stay present through the day, something in the pair actively works, and no material is pushed far enough past its dose threshold to damage the blend. Any threshold that is crossed at all is still listed on the card.
- amber-woods and musk extend each other into one continuous skin base
- musk and orris both sit close to skin and share the same register
Spray first
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Spray second
Le Labo Santal 33
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
roasted-bitter
skin-musk (flipped)
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
skin-musk (flipped)
roasted-bitter
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
skin-musk (flipped)
creamy-wood
-
6 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
skin-musk (flipped)
creamy-wood
Dose thresholds crossed
-
galaxolide — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.8 against a threshold of 0.65.
Above this it reads laundry-detergent flatness that deadens the blend.
Shared materials: galaxolide.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- amber-woods and musk extend each other into one continuous skin base
Spray first
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Spray second
Tom Ford Oud Wood
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
dry-amberwood
roasted-bitter
creamy-wood
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
dry-amberwood
roasted-bitter
creamy-wood
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
dry-amberwood
creamy-wood
roasted-bitter
-
6 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
dry-amberwood
creamy-wood
resin-animalic
Dose thresholds crossed
-
vanillin — made worse by layering.
Combined load 1.0 against a threshold of 0.6.
Above this it reads flat plasticky sweetness that smothers what is under it.
Shared materials: vanillin.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- amber-woods and musk extend each other into one continuous skin base
- musk and orris both sit close to skin and share the same register
Spray first
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Spray second
Glossier You
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Glossier You is still readable.
skin-musk (flipped)
vanillic-sweet
dry-amberwood (flipped)
roasted-bitter
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
skin-musk (flipped)
vanillic-sweet
dry-amberwood (flipped)
roasted-bitter
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
skin-musk (flipped)
vanillic-sweet
dry-amberwood (flipped)
roasted-bitter
-
6 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
skin-musk (flipped)
vanillic-sweet
dry-amberwood (flipped)
burnt-sugar
Dose thresholds crossed
-
galaxolide — caused by layering.
Combined load 1.0 against a threshold of 0.65.
Above this it reads laundry-detergent flatness that deadens the blend.
-
pink pepper — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.8 against a threshold of 0.7.
Above this it reads dry dusty rasp.
-
cashmeran — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.65 against a threshold of 0.6.
Above this it reads pine-musk plastic.
Shared materials: pink pepper, galaxolide, cashmeran.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
Maison Margiela
Jazz Club
Recommended
- vanilla rounds cured tobacco instead of competing with it
- rose and damp earth is the chypre spine
Spray first
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Spray second
Maison Margiela Jazz Club
Ratio: 1 spray of Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium to 2 sprays of Maison Margiela Jazz Club.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Maison Margiela Jazz Club is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
roasted-bitter
peppery-bite (flipped)
narcotic-floral
-
1 hour
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Maison Margiela Jazz Club is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
roasted-bitter
narcotic-floral
skin-musk
-
3 hours
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Maison Margiela Jazz Club is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
roasted-bitter
skin-musk
burnt-sugar
-
6 hours
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Maison Margiela Jazz Club is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
skin-musk
burnt-sugar
earth-damp
Dose thresholds crossed
-
vanillin — made worse by layering.
Combined load 1.1 against a threshold of 0.6.
Above this it reads flat plasticky sweetness that smothers what is under it.
-
pink pepper — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.76 against a threshold of 0.7.
Above this it reads dry dusty rasp.
Shared materials: vanillin, pink pepper.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
Workable with care
These hold together, but something about them needs watching. The caveat is stated on each.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Baccarat Rouge 540
Workable with care
- ethyl maltol is pushed past its usual dose here and starts to read cotton-candy syrup, suffocating and inescapable.
- jasmine absolute is pushed past its usual dose here and starts to read overripe, indolic, airless.
Spray first
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Spray second
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
burnt-sugar (flipped)
roasted-bitter
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
burnt-sugar (flipped)
roasted-bitter
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
burnt-sugar (flipped)
skin-musk (flipped)
-
6 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
burnt-sugar (flipped)
skin-musk (flipped)
Dose thresholds crossed
-
ethyl maltol — made worse by layering.
Combined load 1.05 against a threshold of 0.35.
Above this it reads cotton-candy syrup, suffocating and inescapable.
-
jasmine absolute — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.65 against a threshold of 0.42.
Above this it reads overripe, indolic, airless.
Threshold lowered here because indole reads dirtier over a dry amber base than it does over green or citrus.
-
galaxolide — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.7 against a threshold of 0.65.
Above this it reads laundry-detergent flatness that deadens the blend.
Shared materials: galaxolide, jasmine absolute, ethyl maltol, benzyl salicylate.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- ethyl vanillin is pushed past its usual dose here and starts to read synthetic candy-plastic.
- ethyl maltol is pushed past its usual dose here and starts to read cotton-candy syrup, suffocating and inescapable.
Spray first
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Spray second
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
hay-almond
roasted-bitter
cured-leaf
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
hay-almond
roasted-bitter
amber-balsam
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
hay-almond
amber-balsam
cured-leaf
-
6 hours
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is ahead but Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
hay-almond
amber-balsam
burnt-sugar (flipped)
Dose thresholds crossed
-
ethyl vanillin — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.75 against a threshold of 0.4.
Above this it reads synthetic candy-plastic.
-
ethyl maltol — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.55 against a threshold of 0.35.
Above this it reads cotton-candy syrup, suffocating and inescapable.
-
vanillin — made worse by layering.
Combined load 1.5 against a threshold of 0.6.
Above this it reads flat plasticky sweetness that smothers what is under it.
Shared materials: vanillin, ethyl vanillin, ethyl maltol.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- jasmine absolute is pushed past its usual dose here and starts to read overripe, indolic, airless.
- ethyl vanillin is pushed past its usual dose here and starts to read synthetic candy-plastic.
- amber-woods bury a citrus opening within the first hour, so the citrus is decoration rather than a layer
- vanilla smothers herbal transparency rather than blending with it
- caramelised sweetness flattens dry herbs
Spray first
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Spray second
Yves Saint Laurent Libre
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
narcotic-floral (flipped)
roasted-bitter
dry-amberwood
-
1 hour
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Yves Saint Laurent Libre is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
narcotic-floral (flipped)
dry-amberwood
skin-musk (flipped)
-
3 hours
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Yves Saint Laurent Libre is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
skin-musk (flipped)
narcotic-floral (flipped)
dry-amberwood
-
6 hours
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Yves Saint Laurent Libre is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
skin-musk (flipped)
dry-amberwood
narcotic-floral (flipped)
Dose thresholds crossed
-
jasmine absolute — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.75 against a threshold of 0.42.
Above this it reads overripe, indolic, airless.
Threshold lowered here because indole reads dirtier over a dry amber base than it does over green or citrus.
-
ethyl vanillin — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.6 against a threshold of 0.4.
Above this it reads synthetic candy-plastic.
-
vanillin — made worse by layering.
Combined load 1.2 against a threshold of 0.6.
Above this it reads flat plasticky sweetness that smothers what is under it.
-
orange blossom absolute — made worse by layering.
Combined load 0.9 against a threshold of 0.455.
Above this it reads soapy-indolic, heavy.
Threshold lowered here because indole reads dirtier over a dry amber base than it does over green or citrus.
-
galaxolide — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.85 against a threshold of 0.65.
Above this it reads laundry-detergent flatness that deadens the blend.
Shared materials: vanillin, ethyl vanillin, galaxolide, orange blossom absolute, jasmine absolute, cashmeran.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- amber-woods bury a citrus opening within the first hour, so the citrus is decoration rather than a layer
Spray first
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Spray second
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Ratio: 1 spray of Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium to 2 sprays of Chanel Bleu de Chanel.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
roasted-bitter
skin-musk (flipped)
-
1 hour
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
roasted-bitter
skin-musk (flipped)
-
3 hours
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
skin-musk (flipped)
roasted-bitter
-
6 hours
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
skin-musk (flipped)
burnt-sugar
Dose thresholds crossed
-
galaxolide — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.7 against a threshold of 0.65.
Above this it reads laundry-detergent flatness that deadens the blend.
Shared materials: galaxolide.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
Not recommended
Listed with the reason, because a rejection you cannot inspect is indistinguishable from a bug.
-
Chanel No. 5
Not recommended
aldehydes over coffee read metallic and rancid
-
Maison Margiela By the Fireplace
Not recommended
indolic florals over phenolic smoke go sour-animalic
-
Dior Sauvage
Not recommended
One fragrance is more than twice as loud as the other at 2 of the four checkpoints, so this is not a blend.
-
Diptyque Eau Rose
Not recommended
One fragrance is more than twice as loud as the other at 4 of the four checkpoints, so this is not a blend.
-
Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt
Not recommended
salt air over burnt sugar reads synthetic and confused
-
Diptyque Philosykos
Not recommended
raw green sap over roasted material turns sour