Recommended
Both fragrances stay present through the day, something in the pair actively works, and no material is pushed far enough past its dose threshold to damage the blend. Any threshold that is crossed at all is still listed on the card.
- vanilla rounds cured tobacco instead of competing with it
- rose over oud is the pairing both traditions arrived at independently
- warm spice and balsamic resin deepen each other
Spray first
Tom Ford Oud Wood
Spray second
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Ratio: 1 spray of Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille to 2 sprays of Tom Ford Oud Wood.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is ahead but Tom Ford Oud Wood is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
amber-balsam (flipped)
hay-almond
dry-amberwood
-
1 hour
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is ahead but Tom Ford Oud Wood is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
amber-balsam (flipped)
hay-almond
dry-amberwood
-
3 hours
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is ahead but Tom Ford Oud Wood is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
amber-balsam (flipped)
hay-almond
dry-amberwood
-
6 hours
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is ahead but Tom Ford Oud Wood is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
amber-balsam (flipped)
dry-amberwood
hay-almond
Dose thresholds crossed
-
vanillin — made worse by layering.
Combined load 1.1 against a threshold of 0.6.
Above this it reads flat plasticky sweetness that smothers what is under it.
-
labdanum — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.75 against a threshold of 0.6.
Above this it reads sticky sour leather-resin.
Shared materials: vanillin, labdanum, cedarwood.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- citrus peel lifts dry cedar and keeps it from reading dusty
- warm spice and balsamic resin deepen each other
- cold resin smoke and dry wood reinforce the same austerity
Spray first
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Spray second
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Ratio: 1 spray of Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille to 2 sprays of Chanel Bleu de Chanel.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
vanillic-sweet
dry-amberwood
hay-almond
amber-balsam (flipped)
-
1 hour
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
vanillic-sweet
dry-amberwood
amber-balsam (flipped)
hay-almond
-
3 hours
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
vanillic-sweet
dry-amberwood
amber-balsam (flipped)
hay-almond
-
6 hours
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
vanillic-sweet
dry-amberwood
amber-balsam (flipped)
hay-almond
Dose thresholds crossed
-
labdanum — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.7 against a threshold of 0.6.
Above this it reads sticky sour leather-resin.
Shared materials: labdanum, cedarwood.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
Workable with care
These hold together, but something about them needs watching. The caveat is stated on each.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Baccarat Rouge 540
Workable with care
- ethyl maltol is pushed past its usual dose here and starts to read cotton-candy syrup, suffocating and inescapable.
Spray first
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540
Spray second
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
burnt-sugar (flipped)
hay-almond
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
burnt-sugar (flipped)
hay-almond
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
burnt-sugar (flipped)
hay-almond
-
6 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
burnt-sugar (flipped)
hay-almond
Dose thresholds crossed
-
ethyl maltol — made worse by layering.
Combined load 0.9 against a threshold of 0.35.
Above this it reads cotton-candy syrup, suffocating and inescapable.
Shared materials: cedarwood, ethyl maltol.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
Yves Saint Laurent
Black Opium
Workable with care
- ethyl vanillin is pushed past its usual dose here and starts to read synthetic candy-plastic.
- ethyl maltol is pushed past its usual dose here and starts to read cotton-candy syrup, suffocating and inescapable.
Spray first
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Spray second
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
hay-almond
roasted-bitter
cured-leaf
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
hay-almond
roasted-bitter
amber-balsam
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
hay-almond
amber-balsam
cured-leaf
-
6 hours
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is ahead but Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
hay-almond
amber-balsam
burnt-sugar (flipped)
Dose thresholds crossed
-
ethyl vanillin — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.75 against a threshold of 0.4.
Above this it reads synthetic candy-plastic.
-
ethyl maltol — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.55 against a threshold of 0.35.
Above this it reads cotton-candy syrup, suffocating and inescapable.
-
vanillin — made worse by layering.
Combined load 1.5 against a threshold of 0.6.
Above this it reads flat plasticky sweetness that smothers what is under it.
Shared materials: vanillin, ethyl vanillin, ethyl maltol.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- vanilla smothers herbal transparency rather than blending with it
- caramelised sweetness flattens dry herbs
Spray first
Yves Saint Laurent Libre
Spray second
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Ratio: 1 spray of Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille to 2 sprays of Yves Saint Laurent Libre.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is ahead but Yves Saint Laurent Libre is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
hay-almond
narcotic-floral
cured-leaf
-
1 hour
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is ahead but Yves Saint Laurent Libre is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
hay-almond
narcotic-floral
amber-balsam
-
3 hours
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is ahead but Yves Saint Laurent Libre is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
hay-almond
amber-balsam
dry-amberwood
-
6 hours
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is ahead but Yves Saint Laurent Libre is still readable.
vanillic-sweet (flipped)
hay-almond
amber-balsam
dry-amberwood
Dose thresholds crossed
-
vanillin — made worse by layering.
Combined load 1.3 against a threshold of 0.6.
Above this it reads flat plasticky sweetness that smothers what is under it.
-
ethyl vanillin — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.55 against a threshold of 0.4.
Above this it reads synthetic candy-plastic.
Shared materials: vanillin, ethyl vanillin.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
Not recommended
Listed with the reason, because a rejection you cannot inspect is indistinguishable from a bug.
-
Le Labo Santal 33
Not recommended
Nothing in this pair actively works together. Neither fragrance improves the other, so there is no reason to layer them.
-
Chanel No. 5
Not recommended
aldehydic soap over cured tobacco reads stale and ashtray-like rather than layered
-
Glossier You
Not recommended
Nothing in this pair actively works together. Neither fragrance improves the other, so there is no reason to layer them.
-
Maison Margiela By the Fireplace
Not recommended
One fragrance is more than twice as loud as the other at 4 of the four checkpoints, so this is not a blend.
-
Maison Margiela Jazz Club
Not recommended
One fragrance is more than twice as loud as the other at 4 of the four checkpoints, so this is not a blend.
-
Dior Sauvage
Not recommended
One fragrance is more than twice as loud as the other at 3 of the four checkpoints, so this is not a blend.
-
Diptyque Eau Rose
Not recommended
One fragrance is more than twice as loud as the other at 4 of the four checkpoints, so this is not a blend.
-
Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt
Not recommended
One fragrance is more than twice as loud as the other at 4 of the four checkpoints, so this is not a blend.
-
Diptyque Philosykos
Not recommended
One fragrance is more than twice as loud as the other at 4 of the four checkpoints, so this is not a blend.