Recommended
Both fragrances stay present through the day, something in the pair actively works, and no material is pushed far enough past its dose threshold to damage the blend. Any threshold that is crossed at all is still listed on the card.
Yves Saint Laurent
Black Opium
Recommended
- amber-woods and musk extend each other into one continuous skin base
- musk and orris both sit close to skin and share the same register
Spray first
Le Labo Santal 33
Spray second
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
roasted-bitter
skin-musk (flipped)
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
skin-musk (flipped)
roasted-bitter
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
skin-musk (flipped)
creamy-wood
-
6 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood
vanillic-sweet
skin-musk (flipped)
creamy-wood
Dose thresholds crossed
-
galaxolide — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.8 against a threshold of 0.65.
Above this it reads laundry-detergent flatness that deadens the blend.
Shared materials: galaxolide.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Baccarat Rouge 540
Recommended
- amber-woods and musk extend each other into one continuous skin base
- musk and orris both sit close to skin and share the same register
Spray first
Le Labo Santal 33
Spray second
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
burnt-sugar
leather-saffron
creamy-wood
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
creamy-wood
burnt-sugar
skin-musk (flipped)
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
creamy-wood
skin-musk (flipped)
burnt-sugar
-
6 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
skin-musk (flipped)
creamy-wood
burnt-sugar
Dose thresholds crossed
-
ambroxan — made worse by layering.
Combined load 0.85 against a threshold of 0.35.
Above this it reads metallic salt-dry, throat-catching, flattens everything beside it.
-
iso e super — made worse by layering.
Combined load 1.25 against a threshold of 0.7.
Above this it reads flat, deadening, grey.
-
galaxolide — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.7 against a threshold of 0.65.
Above this it reads laundry-detergent flatness that deadens the blend.
Shared materials: iso e super, cedarwood, galaxolide, ambroxan.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
Workable with care
These hold together, but something about them needs watching. The caveat is stated on each.
- amber-woods bury a citrus opening within the first hour, so the citrus is decoration rather than a layer
Spray first
Le Labo Santal 33
Spray second
Chanel No. 5
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
skin-musk (flipped)
creamy-wood
narcotic-floral
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood
skin-musk (flipped)
creamy-wood
narcotic-floral
-
3 hours
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Chanel No. 5 is still readable.
dry-amberwood
skin-musk (flipped)
creamy-wood
root-powder
-
6 hours
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Chanel No. 5 is still readable.
dry-amberwood
skin-musk (flipped)
creamy-wood
root-powder
Dose thresholds crossed
-
galaxolide — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.8 against a threshold of 0.65.
Above this it reads laundry-detergent flatness that deadens the blend.
Shared materials: sandalwood oil, galaxolide, orris butter, vetiver oil.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- ambroxan is pushed past its usual dose here and starts to read metallic salt-dry, throat-catching, flattens everything beside it.
Spray first
Le Labo Santal 33
Spray second
Tom Ford Oud Wood
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
creamy-wood (flipped)
pencil-wood
resin-animalic
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
creamy-wood (flipped)
pencil-wood
resin-animalic
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
creamy-wood (flipped)
pencil-wood
resin-animalic
-
6 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
creamy-wood (flipped)
resin-animalic
pencil-wood
Dose thresholds crossed
-
ambroxan — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.65 against a threshold of 0.35.
Above this it reads metallic salt-dry, throat-catching, flattens everything beside it.
-
javanol — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.45 against a threshold of 0.35.
Above this it reads milky-metallic, overwhelming.
-
cardamom oil — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.85 against a threshold of 0.65.
Above this it reads soapy eucalyptus edge.
Shared materials: cedarwood, sandalwood oil, cardamom oil, ambroxan, vetiver oil, javanol.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- ambroxan is pushed past its usual dose here and starts to read metallic salt-dry, throat-catching, flattens everything beside it.
Spray first
Le Labo Santal 33
Spray second
Glossier You
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
skin-musk (flipped)
root-powder
creamy-wood
-
1 hour
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
skin-musk (flipped)
root-powder
creamy-wood
-
3 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
skin-musk (flipped)
creamy-wood
root-powder
-
6 hours
Both, roughly even
Both are still contributing in similar measure.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
skin-musk (flipped)
creamy-wood
root-powder
Dose thresholds crossed
-
ambroxan — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.6 against a threshold of 0.35.
Above this it reads metallic salt-dry, throat-catching, flattens everything beside it.
-
galaxolide — caused by layering.
Combined load 1.0 against a threshold of 0.65.
Above this it reads laundry-detergent flatness that deadens the blend.
-
iso e super — made worse by layering.
Combined load 1.1 against a threshold of 0.7.
Above this it reads flat, deadening, grey.
Shared materials: iso e super, galaxolide, ambroxan, methyl ionone, orris butter.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- ambroxan is pushed past its usual dose here and starts to read metallic salt-dry, throat-catching, flattens everything beside it.
- amber-woods bury a citrus opening within the first hour, so the citrus is decoration rather than a layer
Spray first
Le Labo Santal 33
Spray second
Yves Saint Laurent Libre
Ratio: 1 spray each. Neither is loud enough to need holding back.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Both, roughly even
Both openings are still present and roughly balanced.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
narcotic-floral
skin-musk (flipped)
vanillic-sweet
-
1 hour
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Yves Saint Laurent Libre is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
skin-musk (flipped)
vanillic-sweet
narcotic-floral
-
3 hours
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Yves Saint Laurent Libre is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
skin-musk (flipped)
vanillic-sweet
creamy-wood
-
6 hours
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Yves Saint Laurent Libre is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
skin-musk (flipped)
vanillic-sweet
creamy-wood
Dose thresholds crossed
-
ambroxan — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.65 against a threshold of 0.35.
Above this it reads metallic salt-dry, throat-catching, flattens everything beside it.
-
galaxolide — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.85 against a threshold of 0.65.
Above this it reads laundry-detergent flatness that deadens the blend.
Shared materials: galaxolide, ambroxan.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
- amber-woods bury a citrus opening within the first hour, so the citrus is decoration rather than a layer
Spray first
Le Labo Santal 33
Spray second
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Ratio: 1 spray of Le Labo Santal 33 to 2 sprays of Chanel Bleu de Chanel.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
creamy-wood
skin-musk (flipped)
pencil-wood
-
1 hour
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
creamy-wood
skin-musk (flipped)
pencil-wood
-
3 hours
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
creamy-wood
skin-musk (flipped)
pencil-wood
-
6 hours
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Chanel Bleu de Chanel is still readable.
dry-amberwood (flipped)
creamy-wood
skin-musk (flipped)
pencil-wood
Dose thresholds crossed
-
ambroxan — made worse by layering.
Combined load 0.75 against a threshold of 0.35.
Above this it reads metallic salt-dry, throat-catching, flattens everything beside it.
-
iso e super — made worse by layering.
Combined load 1.3 against a threshold of 0.7.
Above this it reads flat, deadening, grey.
-
galaxolide — caused by layering.
Combined load 0.7 against a threshold of 0.65.
Above this it reads laundry-detergent flatness that deadens the blend.
Shared materials: iso e super, cedarwood, sandalwood oil, galaxolide, ambroxan.
Based on material values interpolated from material class. Treat as indicative.
Maison Margiela
By the Fireplace
Workable with care
- One fragrance clearly leads at one checkpoint.
Spray first
Le Labo Santal 33
Spray second
Maison Margiela By the Fireplace
Ratio: 1 spray of Le Labo Santal 33 to 2 sprays of Maison Margiela By the Fireplace.
How it moves over the day
-
10 minutes
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Maison Margiela By the Fireplace is still readable.
dry-amberwood
creamy-wood
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
-
1 hour
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Maison Margiela By the Fireplace is still readable.
dry-amberwood
creamy-wood
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
-
3 hours
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 is ahead but Maison Margiela By the Fireplace is still readable.
dry-amberwood
creamy-wood
burnt-phenol
vanillic-sweet
-
6 hours
Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo Santal 33 leads clearly. Maison Margiela By the Fireplace is a modifier at this point rather than half of a blend.
dry-amberwood
creamy-wood
vanillic-sweet
burnt-phenol
Shared materials: cedarwood.
Rests on at least one placeholder material value. Treat this verdict as weak.